One thing about a good hair trend is that if it trended once before, it’ll trend again with the modern-day twist. Layers were the buzz of the 90’s, but now, in 2023, we are circling back and reviving the flippy, wispy, choppy, and feathered layered hair trend.
For a long time, layers were a style that a lot of my clients would stray from. What a lot of clients didn’t realize was how much shape, volume, and texture could compliment and enhance our natural silhouette. Typically, as a stylist, when adding layers, I do so to shape, to remove bulk, to create movement within the hair, to add volume, or all of the above.
Layers are customizable depending on how loud or soft my client wants their haircut to be. If my client opts for a more invisible and blended look, then as a stylist, I know that longer layers and less volume is the way to go to create softness within the haircut. Whereas, if my client asks for boldness within their cut, I’m here to create movement within the hair with short to medium choppy, wispy, or flippy layers.
Look through different types of layers and get ready to say goodbye to flat hair in favor of a bouncy, texturized, and voluminous hairstyle.
One of my favorite cuts to do is the wispy cut. When I think wispy, I think of a light and airy look. If you want a lightweight and airy looking hairstyle, the wispy cut is the way to go.
I customized this cut by adding bangs, a heavy face frame, and wispy layers to create a soft and airy movement to match this happy, carefree face.
All layers are either cut with a razor or shear. What makes a layer texturized is when the layers’ interior or ends are cut with a texturizing shear.
Texturizing the ends after layering the hair will help remove the weight that prevents movement and bounce throughout your cut.
When my client would complain about bulk throughout her ends, I remove it by adding medium layers and texturizing the ends to create a wispy bounce throughout her hair.
Flippy layers are layers that normally fan out away from the face creating a 70s “flipped” look. To achieve this style, I normally start with creating a base cut when the hair is wet, then follow up by blowing the hair out.
The cut is not finished or flipped yet even after the blowout though. When the hair is completely dry and styled, I go in and finish off the cut with the assistance of my straight shear and texturizing shear. Only after the dry cut, will the layers be flipped.
Finishing off with a dry cut after styling allows me to see the true shape of my haircut. It’s not possible to see the shape or flip when the hair is wet. The cut and blowout style go hand in hand when creating flippy layers.
The flippy layered trend no longer lives just within medium to bob hair lengths. With the right cut and styling, you can get the trending flippy look even with long hair.
Flippy ends on this 90’s styled bob is giving that trendy, effortless, and airy hair look.
This bold haircut is created by incorporating baby bangs, a heavy face frame, and by adding in tons of choppy layers. Choppy layers are shorter in length and are created to be distinct, not blended.
Feathered haircuts make layers flow away from the face in a light and feathery manner. The main focus here is on the ends.
For the look below, I removed bulk by adding in curtain bangs and thinning out her ends in a way that made her hair flow away from the face, thus creating a feathery illusion.
Haircuts with short layers allow room for volume specifically throughout the crown of the head. This leaves space for lots of movement and flow throughout the cut. Keep in mind that the longer the layer, the heavier in weight the layers will be. All in all, longer layers will decrease the amount of movement and volume at the crown of the head.
For example, I went shorter with the layers at the crown of this client’s head to accentuate her natural silhouette. Doing so helped create a more tapered look that hugs her jawline area throughout the ends to enhance her natural features.
And here, because the layers are longer, there is minimal volume at the crown. The flow of this cut resides in the ends below her chin. This style is great for anyone wanting to remove bulk while creating a more natural movement throughout the ends.
If you want to maintain the length all while adding bounce to the haircut, opt for shorter layers on long hair. Shorter layers can cup the face and flip out towards the ends, creating a statement style that is meant to be loud.
If you like your color to be the center of attention, opt for invisible layers. Invisible layers are exactly that: invisible. They’re there but you can’t see them. These layers are typically longer and most the work is done in the interior of the cut.
Invisible layers are meant to remove excess hair and to create a natural movement. This cut is great for anyone wanting a more natural finished haircut.
Face framing layers are layers that surround your face typically starting at or below the jawline. These layers visibly soften and can accentuate your natural features. This style of cutting can help slim your face for an overall flattering touch.
When cutting layers into longer hair, you can end up with either a U shape, or if you feel bold, a V shaped cut. The difference becomes prominent in the way the hair falls down the back, giving the illusion of a soft U or a pointed V-like shape. When the hair is pulled forward, the shorter layers you see will fall more like a face frame past the shoulders.
Layers in curly hair help create a nice form, improve bounce and, most importantly, avoid an awkward triangle cut look. When layering your curly hair, it is important to choose between longer layers and a curly shag, which would normally have curly bangs and shorter layers around the crown.
Needless to say, it is vital to find a stylist who specializes in cutting curly hair and does not help you choose the best type of layers, but also teaches you the proper hair styling routine to follow.
Making sure you have the right styling products to accentuate your layered cut and create a salon look from home.
I like to use hair creams instead of hair sprays when it comes to blowouts. I make sure I use an anti-frizz cream and a heat protectant cream to smooth and protect the hair during the blow dry.
You can use a round brush, blow dryer brush, or heat rollers to give your layered cut bounce and volume. Finish by running your fingers through the ends of the hair with a lightweight hair oil to smooth and add shine to your blowout.
When asking for layers, do show multiple inspo pictures. Stylists can better visualize what you want when there’s a clear picture being shown.
Remember that bangs, face framing, short layers, long layers are all components to creating a customized style created just for you. Don’t be afraid to add some texture or movement.
If you are afraid, remember that not all layered cuts need to be loud. Natural, long, or invisible layers are key words to use when asking for a softer variant of a layered haircut.
Don’t be afraid when a stylist takes out their thinning/texturizing shears when giving you a natural cut. These tools don’t have just one use. They can either create softness and blend or create texture and choppiness.
If your hair is very thin but want to see layering or movement in your cut, I recommend getting bangs or heavy face frame. If the hair is fine and thin, it may be best not to cut much of the interior to prevent the hair from having sparse ends and looking even thinner. This isn’t the case for all people with thin hair though. If you have coarse hair, you are free to go with either type of layers.
When adding layers into the hair, remember that there are some layers to avoid with certain face shapes. If you have a round face shape, I recommend straying away from shorter layers around the face, as these may accentuate the roundness. Whereas, if you stick with a longer layered cut, the longer layers falling below the chin will help elongate your face shape. Always consult with your stylist first about what will work best for your hair type and face shape.
If you’re thinking of completely changing up your style but are too afraid of coloring your hair, getting a stylish and trendy haircut is the move for you. Layered haircuts are once again the booming trend, and for good reason. Whether you want to remove excess bulk, add bounce, or get something that compliments your face shape more, layers will always be the way to go. It’s an easy, quick, and stylish way to change up your style and enhance your natural features. Run, don’t walk to the salon, your dream cut is awaiting you! And for more tips and inspo, follow me at @dreamhairbycelaa.